Blog

  • Bonsai Soil vs. Potting Mix: Advantages and Disadvantages

    Bonsai Soil vs. Potting Mix: Advantages and Disadvantages

    As you research bonsai, you’ll probably read, watch, and hear how important using “bonsai soil” is. This page will describe what this term means, why it’s important, and how necessary it may or may not be. After all, some of my favorite naturally occurring miniaturized trees grow out of rock cracks alongside the highway. Given that, how important can soil really be?

    What does a tree’s root system need?

    Soil really impacts the root system, so we’ll focus on its needs here:

    • Water – Right up there with light, water is critical to trees’ health. It is crucial for photosynthesis and transporting nutrients throughout the tree.
    • Oxygen – Tree roots are responsible for respiration, meaning the process of turning food (sugars) into energy. Roots absorb oxygen from pockets of air in their soil (or growing medium) to use during respiration. Compacted or water-logged soil reduces the amount of oxygen in the soil, leading to an unbalanced tree.
    • Stability – Trees need to feel anchored to grow. Since bonsai trees have unnaturally small root systems (without a tap root), this is why most practitioners wire their trees into their pots. A tree that is unable to anchor in its pot will die quickly.
    • Minerals – Roots absorb vital nutrients trees need to really grow and maintain their health. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the most important minerals trees absorb from soil and are at the heart of most fertilizer mixes. Trace elements such as magnesium and calcium are also used to support critical functions.

    What is Bonsai Soil?

    “Bonsai Soil” is the substrate in which you decide to grow your containerized tree. It truly could be anything, but most bonsai practitioners are referring to a mix of specific ingredients when they mention it:

    • Akadama – A granular clay produced in Japan that is used for its water and nutrient retention. Given its granularity, it is useful for aeration, but it does break down over time and many practitioners suggest replacing it every 2-3 years. Some practitioners reuse it after that time frame as a component in a different soil mix. It is slightly acidic and has a high buffer capacity, meaning its pH won’t change much over time.
    • Pumice – A porous volcanic rock that is lightweight and prevents soil compaction. It aerates the roots and is slow to break down. Being porous, it will take up and retain some nutrients, but it offers no nutrient value itself.
    • Lava Rock – A durable volcanic rock used for drainage and aeration. It helps to hold the mix together and prevent root rot. Lava rock has a low buffer capacity and is chemically inert, so it sort of stands alone from other components used in a soil mix. It offers no nutrients to the plant.
    • Organic Component – Some bonsai practitioners will add a small part of organic compost or pine bark to their bonsai soil mix.

    Most bonsai practitioners buy these components individually and create custom mixes for their trees depending on the tree species, its microclimate, and its developmental stage. You can buy some premade mixes like this one.

    Standard Potting Mix

    You probably have a bag of standard potting mix lying around, so you’ll be tempted to use it. If you do, be sure to understand the makeup of the soil and how it will initially impact the tree in the short-term and over time. Here are some common components in potting mix:

    • Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – Both Peat Moss and Coconut Coir are lightweight organic material that is acidic and retains moisture well. Peat Moss is less environmentally-friendly (peat moss harvesting is environmentally taxing, plus coconut coir is a recycled byproduct of food production). If using a mix heavily composed of either of these two, you’ll want to pay attention to your soil’s pH and monitor the mix for soil compaction.
    • Perlite – Small white volcanic rocks. These generally retain their shape well over time, so they prevent soil compaction which improves aeration and drainage. They also retain moisture well.
    • Vermiculite – A mineral (magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate) that holds water and provides nutrients to the tree. Better than perlite at holding moisture.
    • Sand – Helps provide drainage and structure to the mix. Sand is slow to break down and allows the tree to better anchor in the mix. When purchasing sand, make sure to select a product that has been produced for garden (rather than industrial) applications.
    • Compost – Organic matter that provides nutrients and helpful microbes to the tree.
    • Pine Bark – Acidic organic matter that breaks down more slowly than other organic matter on this list, it helps with aeration and drainage.
    • Worm Castings – Provide nutrients to the mix. In a way, they act like a slow-release fertilizer as they break down over time.
    • Limestone – Given the other materials on this list tend to skew acidic, limestone can be added to mixes to balance the pH of the substrate.

    Standard Potting Mix Advantages

    For me, a standard potting soil mix is advantageous because of its moisture-retaining properties. I work full-time and have a young family, so I don’t have time to water my trees multiple times per day. If you live in an area with dependable precipitation and you use potting soil mix with your trees, you may only need to water your trees every few days. Conversely, bonsai soil tends to require more frequent watering due to its superior drainage. On hot days, some practitioners need to water their trees twice daily.

    Another benefit is the organic material found in standard potting mixes. Using commercial fertilizers can become expensive, so relying on the nutrients found naturally in the organic matter can reduce the need to fertilize your trees. Keep in mind that most store-bought potting mixes may include a fertilizer additive, so additional fertilizer throughout the growing season may be taxing on your trees.

    Finally, a standard potting mix can be much less expensive than bonsai soil. If you are developing many pre-bonsai trees in larger containers, using bonsai soil would be cost-prohibitive for most practitioners.

    Bonsai Soil Advantages

    One key advantage of bonsai soil is its fantastic drainage. This greatly reduce the chances of root rot, one of the most common causes of death for containerized plants. Overly moist substrates can also create environments that can lead to harmful bacterial or fungal infections.

    Bonsai soil provides great aeration to the roots. Strong air flow can lead to strong root growth. Preventing soil compaction ensures proper respiration for the tree.

    The airy bonsai soil mix encourages fine, fibrous root growth. Traditional potting mixes typically promote thicker roots, which can look out of place for a miniaturized tree.

    Consisting of more durable components, bonsai soil doesn’t break down as fast as potting mix. Mixes with soft organic matter will compact at a faster rate than bonsai soil, meaning you could have to repot those trees more often. Roots will also be more stable in bonsai soil as the components tend to be heavier and structurally sound.

    A bonus noted by several bonsai practitioners is that rodents are less likely to dig in bonsai mixes that contain lava rock.

    Conclusion

    Choosing potting mix or bonsai soil for your trees depends on your lifestyle, stage of tree development, and disposable income. Most bonsai practitioners will end up acquiring most of the soil components mentioned in this article and use them to create their own soil mixes depending on their unique situations. Be aware that any substrate will need to be monitored and adjusted as it ages and the tree grows.

  • Common Japanese Terms in Bonsai and Their Meanings

    Common Japanese Terms in Bonsai and Their Meanings

    When I first became interested in bonsai, I naturally began watching and reading a lot of internet content about it. At first, I was a little intimidated when I came across Japanese terms casually referenced in articles and videos. I did some research and eventually became familiar enough with these terms to use them in conversation. Here’s a quick, non-exhaustive overview of the important terms:

    First, What Does “Bonsai” Mean?

    The word bonsai (盆栽) is derived from two Japanese characters: “bon” (盆) meaning “tray” or “pot,” and “sai” (栽) meaning “planting” or “cultivation.” Thus, bonsai literally means “planted in a container.” However, the practice goes far beyond simple potted plants. Bonsai is the art of creating miniature, stylized versions of full-sized trees that appear as though they have been shaped by natural forces over time. Most practitioner’s goal is to create a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing balance between the tree and its environment, evoking a sense of beauty, age, and tranquility.

    Now on to lesser-known terms:

    Nebari (根張り)

    Translation: Root flare or surface roots
    Importance:
    Nebari refers to the visible surface roots that spread from the base of the tree. In bonsai, the appearance of strong, well-balanced nebari is highly desirable as it gives the tree a sense of stability and age. It also adds to the visual aesthetics, grounding the tree and enhancing the illusion of an ancient tree growing in nature. The development of nebari can take years, making it a testament to a grower’s skill and patience.

    Jin (神)

    Translation: Deadwood
    Importance:
    Jin is a technique used to create deadwood on the branches or trunk of a bonsai. By stripping the bark and treating the wood, practitioners can mimic the appearance of weathered, ancient trees that have survived extreme conditions. Jin is an essential aspect of creating a sense of age and resilience in a bonsai, giving the impression that the tree has endured harsh natural forces over time.

    Shari (舎利)

    Translation: Deadwood on the trunk
    Importance:
    Similar to jin, shari involves the creation of deadwood but specifically on the trunk of the bonsai. This technique is used to represent the scars left by lightning strikes, disease, or old age. Shari contributes to the overall story the bonsai tells and helps convey the tree’s struggle for survival, enhancing its natural beauty.

    Tachiagari (立ち上がり)

    Translation: Lower trunk section
    Importance:
    Tachiagari refers to the lower part of the trunk, from the nebari up to the first branch. This part of the bonsai is crucial because it sets the foundation for the tree’s overall appearance. A well-formed tachiagari should exhibit tapering and movement, leading the viewer’s eye naturally upward through the rest of the tree. It is an essential element for creating a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing bonsai.

    Yamadori (山採り)

    Translation: Collected from the mountains (wild tree collection)
    Importance:
    Yamadori are trees that are collected from natural environments, such as mountains or forests. These trees often have unique and dramatic shapes due to their struggle to survive in harsh conditions. Yamadori bonsai are highly prized for their natural, rugged appearance, which can be difficult to replicate through traditional nursery-grown stock. The collection of yamadori is also steeped in ethical and legal considerations, as it requires proper permissions and responsible collection to avoid harming natural ecosystems.

    Shohin (小品)

    Translation: Small size
    Importance:
    Shohin refers to bonsai that are less than 20 cm (8 inches) tall. These tiny trees are not just miniature versions of regular bonsai but represent a distinct category that requires specialized techniques. Shohin bonsai are highly admired for their compact size and the level of detail that must be achieved in such a small form. While they may appear “simpler,” they actually demand a great deal of skill to create balance and maturity in such a limited space.

    Chuhin (中品)

    Translation: Medium-sized bonsai
    Importance:
    Chuhin bonsai range between 20 and 40 cm (8 to 16 inches) in height and serve as the middle ground between shohin and larger bonsai. Chuhin is a popular size for bonsai practitioners because it strikes a balance between manageability and detail. The tree is small enough to fit into smaller spaces yet large enough to showcase intricate shaping and styling techniques.

    Omono (大物)

    Translation: Large bonsai
    Importance:
    Omono refers to large bonsai, typically over 60 cm (24 inches) tall. These trees are often the centerpiece in bonsai exhibitions and are admired for their grandeur and detail. Cultivating omono bonsai requires significant effort, both in terms of shaping and maintenance. Due to their size, omono bonsai tend to demand more time, space, and resources, but the results can be breathtaking.

    Moyogi (模様木)

    Translation: Informal upright style
    Importance:
    Moyogi is one of the most common bonsai styles. Unlike the strict, formal upright style, moyogi allows for more natural curvature in the trunk, giving the tree a graceful and flowing appearance. This style is popular because it mimics the way trees often grow in nature, bending and twisting in response to their environment.

    Why These Terms Matter

    Understanding these terms is not just about learning a new vocabulary; it’s about connecting with the heart of the bonsai tradition. Each term reflects a specific technique, style, or aspect of the bonsai tree, contributing to the overall philosophy that bonsai embodies: patience, attention to detail, and harmony with nature. Mastery of these terms and the concepts behind them is essential for anyone who seeks to create bonsai not just as plants, but as living works of art that tell a story.

    By familiarizing yourself with these essential terms, you can deepen your appreciation for the complexity and beauty of bonsai, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned practitioner.